Thursday, March 29, 2012

Bugs and Buds


Spring Azures and a bunch of other butterflies are out already. These guys endured the frost and were found thawing out on a log.



The colors of Dogwood, Redbud, Maple and Poplar contrast the sky over Shenandoah.



Daffodils off the side of the Dickey Ridge trail.



Shenandoah valley cattle and a spring storm brewing in the distance.



You always wonder why they are called the Six Spotted Tiger Beetle until you really see them up close. This guy posed for a picture which is not usually the case, but I was psyched to get a shot of one.

Thursday, March 22, 2012

A Four Plus Success

The Training
Last Thursday I was prepared for a long miserable day. Jury duty and taxes, ugh. Turns out, taxes aren’t due till APRIL 15! Jury duty got canceled. It was 9am, sunny, 72 degrees and I had the day off, so hhmm, how could I still make myself miserable?

I had rock climbed on Old Rag all the previous day so I was definitely running a deficit in the calorie and hydration compartments, but I figured I would be alright for a run. Dad agreed to pick me up in the afternoon so I pounded a large greasy sandwich, coffee, a whole bunch of OJ and packed my running pack - 9:30am and it was time for a long training run.

My goal was the run the entire stretch of the AT through Shenandoah’s north district (28miles) and to finish at Thorton Gap where dad would be at 3pm. The first climb is 6.5 miles and 2000’ to Compton peak and all that food was just a sloshing around the whole way. Gurgle gurgle, walk a few paces, this is the warm-up. Burp. By the top I was dripping sweat, my stomach was fairly knotted and I was well on my way to a long… miserable day. Miles of blazing hot, leaves off the trees direct sun and record high (80 degree) temps and I found myself laying prone on the overlook pavement. I was waiting for dad at my bail out finish line. Dehydration got the best of me. Even after refilling my pack at a good quality spring and drinking directly from another, which might be defined as, well, questionable I was still toasted .

I’m coming clean to all those I told I completed 26 miles - it was 24.5 ok, but forget about that, I have a true success to talk about!

In the car on the way down the hill I fought the urge to vomit. Long distance running sucks. Four days later I was preparing for the longest endurance event of my life.

The Real Thing

The FOUR STATE PLUS challenge as I define it runs about 40 miles on the Appalachian trail then hit’s a bit of road to cover PA, MD,VA, and WV under foot power (the Four State). Pashaaa, people have done that lots of times. I would then bike 62 miles on the C & O canal tow path to Georgetown, finishing in a fifth jurisdiction, the wannabe state of Washington D.C., giving the event its golden star PLUS tacked on to the name!

A lot of the motivation to do this came from my friend Jeremy who thinks the whole event has never been done, stating flatly; “anyone who likes to suffer that much has packed up long ago and moved to somewhere with better scenery”. Motivation is a funny thing, one that can get you in trouble quick. Like two years ago when I first tried the Four State Plus, it was a disaster, a Four State Epic Fail, the plus part was that I didn’t freeze to death (you can read about it here if you like). Boredom (and a festering epic fail pride wound) probably motivated this try. Jeremy offered to drop me off in the early morning as he did two years ago in the hopes that he would again, see me fail. My loving sister would pick up my broken body at the Georgetown finish line. The forecast was for possible showers, a cool fog in the morning, clearing and 75 in the afternoon and possibly perfect for a long run. I bought groceries, ate and drank up and despite my horrible long run a few days before I felt no lingering soreness. Time to go for it!

Jeremy dropped me at the Pen Mar parking at 6:10 am. Although the park is called Pen Mar based on its state line border location, as Jeremy pointed out, when you look at the map you notice that the real PA state line is actually just a hair (maybe ¼ mile) north of the park on the AT. I thought about walking back to the real state boundary… and it’s really the thought that counts.

The first few miles are rocky, misleading, and following the previous nights thunderstorms, very wet. After 2.5 miles the warm up culminates in a steep, large, boulder talus climb of 700 feet to High Rock. I decided after my initial Four Plus Failure that it was in fact NOT bad judgment but rather THIS section of the hike which was my nemesis. This section had led to my near catastrophic first attempt, my defaced dignity and six months of an aching groin. This time I would walk! I would do it in the dark, and as a warm up, but I would curtail my nervous excitement and force myself to walk. As I jogged some of the initial easy stuff I wondered what consequences might befall me today for my bullheadedness.

Once I made the ridge there were some large puddles as well as some sections where the trail had just directly become a stream. I did my best to keep my feet on the damp side rather than the soaked side. Unfortunately one of the downsides of wearing my tried and true trail runners is their gaping holes. When I got to the stream crossing next to Raven Rock road just five miles into the run the rock step crossing was totally under water. It seemed my feet were doomed to wetness, but nevertheless I pulled off the medium wet right shoe and sock and the mostly wet lefts and risked cut feet rather than sopping ones at the end of the 30 ft ford. It seemed a good decision! For the rest of the day my feet slowly dried as I ran through the cool fog and lucked out with the rain.

I’ve learned through experience (even recently) that food and hydration contribute directly to how you feel during a run I now have enough experience to know I should eat and drink only the things that work for me. I should eat the things that don’t leave me nauseated when I burp or put me under urgent poo distress. Endurance events are battles of attrition where if you don’t eat or drink enough you will eventually just lay down and die, so I planned to eat as much as I could. In the bag was a peanut butter and honey sandwich, some trail bars, lots of fruit snacks and peanut butter M &Ms, one small Gatorade and lots of water. I ate and drank at the first inkling of hunger or thirst felt for the most part good! I refilled water at a good spring 16 miles in and ran on, completing the most difficult parts of the run by mid morning.

At around 27 miles my knees were really starting to hurt. It wasn’t like a bad broken hurt but more of a deep seated soreness. I guess I shouldn’t have fallen from the tops of so many boulders, or maybe I jumped off too many large cement staircases as college freshman, or just maybe I shouldn’t have run 24 hard trail miles five days ago. Whatever it was I kinda wanted to cry, I was alone in the woods and in pain and I wanted a way out. Music! The battery on the phone was good so for the first time of the day I plugged in the ear buds. It was Citizen Cope “Blame it on Zeus and Apollo, and Adonis, but what you done here is put yourself between a bullet and a target and it won’t be long before you’re pulling yourself away.” Thanks Cope, it did somehow help though, and pretty soon I was shuffling at a slightly faster shuffle.

Somewhere around mile 30 I came upon some college age backpackers and stopped to say hello. They were mid way through their third day on the trail and stated that they were covering the entirety of MD on the AT. I tried to hide a smirk and said “cool, well enjoy the rest”. Maybe it’s that smirk that motivates people (me) to try and do stuff like this. The feeling that I can do something others can’t is a motivator, then again maybe they are just not dumb enough.

The last ten miles of the run felt very long, but coming down the steep section next to Weverton cliffs was definitely the worst, my knees were on fire, and the shuffle was degraded to a hobble. The run was almost over now and although it was rather hot and sunny now, the final section was flat. Well, sort of… the purest style of the four state would continue along the AT through Harpers Ferry in WV, cross a bridge over the Shenandoah river and then head up a final steep mile to Loudon Heights and the VA boarder on the AT. Instead I decided to cross the earlier, Sandy Hook bridge over the Potomac into VA on route 340. I would then do an easy one mile on the road and cross the second 340 bridge (the Shen in the opposite direction) to touch my fourth state, WV. It’s really the thought that counts.

Although I was unwilling to, shall we say, go the extra mile for the run I was on my way to the next leg, the 62 mile bike, ugh! I fueled up on cool water, bright orange cheesy pretzels, one cold Red Bull and a neon blue Gatorade. So I guess my form fell apart on the food thing, but what can I say, the heart wants what it wants!

I forgot the padded bike shorts but this thing was already sort of about pain so at 3:30 pm I hopped on the bike and went for it. My knees felt immediately better and I was cruising along on the tow path in mild amounts of pain. I was just distracted biking along, looking at the turtles, throwing back some fruit snacks, arranging a pick up via the cell phone and occasionally hitting the odd muddy pothole. Bliss. For about twenty miles life was good.

The final forty-two miles I must admit things got kinda ugly. Bending forward on the bike made my butt hurt. Somewhere deep inside me a green peanut butter M&M reacted with the catalysts of Red Bull, Fierce Gatorade and White Chocolate Macadamia Cliff bar resulting in an evil toxic sludge only to be rivaled by the raw sewage smell of the tow path itself during its last 25 miles. I put my head down. The flies around dusk got so bad that I felt like I was breathing them in with every mouthful, unless I breathed through my nose which would make it happen less, but is a worse feeling for sure. I had one little fly crawl around my eye for what felt like miles but it was getting to dark for the shades. My sweaty arms and legs were speckled like a dirty front bumper. I put my head down all the more. I wanted to be done. I pounded it out. There was a bumpy detour somewhere near Great Falls complete with staircases which I had to carry the bike up and down and at some point I had to get out the headlamp.

The evening finished nice, cool and clear as I coasted to the paths’ end in Georgetown (further than the D.C. boarder, I know) and at 8:15pm, 14 hrs 5minutes after I started I had made it. It wasn’t pretty and I’m still a bit sore two days later but I guess there’s a chance I’ve learned something about myself, nonetheless I’m proud of what I accomplished.


A trail-side waterfall next to Raven Rocks.



The stream I had to ford five miles in.


A wet nasty section of trail I had to cross. I only took pictures that would make the event look epic (in case I bailed)

Monday, March 19, 2012

A Warm Winters' End


Last night in the north end of Shenandoah the crickets were loud! Yes, its still technically winter, but it has felt like a spring minus the rain for a month now. The early flowers (like the Round Lobed Liverleaf above)are now popping up everywhere, even at the higher elevations where the leaves are still down. Some of the hibernators are out early as well, so it's time to start being aware of the snakes out there again.
I saw the below pictured Garter snakes about a week ago, which should not have come as a surprise since they are the northernmost living snake in the world and it was 70 degrees out!





The recent climbing has been awesome. Spectacular leafless views, great temps and a few first ascents thrown in!








Noticed the above Poplar tree on a recent trip and decided I had better take a picture before the leaves obscure what happened to it. The tree was struck by lightning at the very top and the bark was exploded off the side as the electricity traveled down the trunk. There were pieces of wooden shrapnel hundreds of feet away!

Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Where the Sidewalk Ends

"There is a place where the sidewalk ends
And before the street begins,
And there the grass grows soft and white,
And there the sun burns crimson bright,
And there the moon-bird rests from his flight
To cool in the peppermint wind."

-Shel Silverstein


There is a place within us where we have never been. It's a place where the sidewalk ends, and instead we find excitement and new experience. As adventurers we might find this place on a trail we've never hiked, a longer run than we have ever before completed or by simply losing ourselves in a sunset. Around here we spend a lot of time looking for, dwelling in, and sharing this place with others. And that only leaves us looking for more! So here's a few recent pics of those things that left me excited to share, and as always, looking for more.

Watching a four foot tall Great Blue Heron will leave any animal lover in awe!




The beauty of a late winter snow on an early spring bloomer.




Sharing a local cave with friends who have never experienced one is an unforgettable time, especially when you turn the lights out!




An old Shenandoah home site and its surrounding artifacts can be a journey into the past.




The above picture was taken this winter and captured what was likely to be Old Rag Mountains' most recent first ascent. The climb is at an unlikely area on a small cliff that is not in any of the published info on the mountain (which of course doesn't mean it hasn't been climbed). First ascent or not it was a new and exciting climb for us. We found the cliff when we were, you guessed it, exploring.




Watching a Great Blue uncoil and strike for a fish is a lightning fast demonstration of an exceptional hunter at work.



Thursday, February 02, 2012

A Lackluster Winter

What to do with a lackluster winter? A winter where ice climbing is non existent and skiing seems contrived (not that we don't still go). It's been a winter where we've seen almost no ice on the Shenandoah river (above), and most of our snows have been melted by noon.
But the Skyline drive has been open! Our access to the parks 500 miles of trails has been nearly unencumbered. Sunny skys and fallen leaves have made for great hiking, running, climbing and exploring opportunities. So don't let the lack of glistening snow get you down, get out there and get after it.



There's bouldering to be done! These temps are perfect for friction top-outs and first ascents.




It's easy to see a lot of things you wouldn't when the leaves are in, like this grapevine on Compton Peak.




So there's been a little ice, but not much to sink your ice axes into.




If you rush out early enough you might still get to see some cool snow formations.




Ice on a fungus.



So go explore, it's the perfect time of year!

Monday, December 05, 2011

Haze and Humidity


The haze, heat and humidity are gone which is awesome for a couple of reasons.
1. You can see a long way and the and the views are clear...
Unfortunately this does not mean you will get a clear shot if you see a bobcat. Nonetheless it's still really sweet to see one.



2. The friction is good...
It's bouldering season!


Saturday, November 26, 2011

Give Thanks


In our family we give thanks via pumpkin pie with lots of whipped cream. Then on black Friday we give thanks again with a nice hike in the park.




This year we gave thanks by "enjoying" a slide and a soak in the cold tub.




The following pictures would not have been put up except that they are family... so it's OK to show how thankful we were with our soaks!






















We finished off black Friday with a little rock climbing followed shortly by another big meal and of course, seconds on the pie!

Monday, November 21, 2011

With The Leaves Down


With the leaves down there is not much to hide behind. So if you enjoy sweatshirt weather and unrestricted views, right now just might be the best time of the year. To say the least there is a lot to be thankful for.




With little shade to be found the sun warms the cliffs up quick and the temps are perfect for a little climbing. If you are out hiking or climbing you probably won't have to fight to many bugs or end up to hot and sweaty. In fact this time of year it's mostly just short sunny days, long views and cool breezes.




Oh yea, and there's a lot of bear and other wildlife out right now. They are fattening up for the winter on a years bountiful harvest of acorns. Although the leaves are gone many of the bear take to the trees to get to the top shelf nuts.




Even though the days are shorter we are out making the most of them even if it sometimes means hiking out by headlamp!

Monday, October 31, 2011

Legends Of The Fall



Some people hear their own inner voices with great clearness and they live by what they hear. Such people become crazy, or they become legends. -One Stab - Legends of the Fall





It was a fall that came early. After late summers' saturating rains it brought early snows. It was the fall I met the famous Warren Doyle on the AT as he was working on his seventeenth through hike. It was the fall we shared a snack and a clifftop sunset with the seeker Freebird who has hiked many long distance trails following his years as a pro windsurfer. It was the fall where my greatest fear was that I was losing my fear of the magnificent Black Bear I seemed to be surrounded by. A fall of great leaves, trips and tips. One of first ascents on boulders and the smell of foliage mingled with woodsmoke. The fall where Almost Alpine made us movie stars at Seneca Rocks. A fall to remember, one that will not be easily forgotten.



Looking south from the summit of Marys Rock after sunset with Freebird.



No matter how mellow I perceive myself, I left the house stressed. Minutiae of the everyday getting to me and I hadn't even eaten. Cold cereal or a run? I hit the trail, after all it wasn't raining yet. The first uphill was agonizingly slow. The heavy breathing made me aware of the sweet smell of leaf decay. Frost crunched while smoke filtered fog-like through the remaining color in the trees. Picking up the pace I surprised some squirrels who went skittering of and up the nearest trunk. Then I saw the first bear standing frozen to my left. In return I too froze, but within seconds he was running off into the woods and I again headed up the trail. I thought about how different bear had been from the mother and three cubs I'd seen several times close to here. That bear family seemed to want nothing but to ignore me and continue about their daily routine. And just like that, there they were! Mother and two cubs on the ground while a third climbed a nearby tree.




I have never been accused of being overly smart, so it should come as no surprise that although I was alone in the woods with four bear I could not help but stand and watch for a couple minutes.


The two cubs on the ground walked casually onto a downed tree and seemingly just as casually from the downed tree onto and up a close by vertical limbless trunk. In awe I watched as one cub began to lounge in the y of the tree trunk split. Then with me gawking from a distance the loungers' sibling climbed the overhanging and featureless outside of the right hand branch. Now fifty feet up the free-soloing cub decided that the left hand branch looked more appealing. He leaned to the left, and leaped...


Five feet sideways! Effortlessly catching the other side of the y above his siblings head and continuing upwards. Ropeless and fearless that cub (and his 5.16 dyno) put some perspective my climbing career.

As I began to walk on I heard another rustling. I peered unbelieving at yet another two cubs in the distance!


Thirty minutes later I reached the halfway point of the run and looked out on an incredible view, complete with a vulture gliding on the updrafts in the distance. The down hill half of the run seemed to glide by like the bird and I did not again see the bear family. Maybe it was what they call a runners high, but the trail seemed to pass as a cool fall breeze and for a moment it felt like everything was right in the world; and I hadn't even eaten breakfast yet.



Sun early snow and an Oak.



A bear from a different day considers a climb, instead, she came down and continued rooting around the ground for grubs and nuts.




A classic Seneca 5.9 Unrelenting Verticality




A legendary local free-soloists also on some unrelenting verticality, but I don't think he's named or graded the route.
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