Between the Rains

Another post-rain sunset shines a little light on Old Rag.



When the sun and wind hits the rock it can dry quick, but with all the rain of late we have had to jump at our opportunities.



A little guy learns the ropes of trail running on a dry boulder stream crossing. With a little extra care even rainy day trail running is a good time, and with Shenandoah's 500 miles of trails there is plenty to see!

Nearly Thanksgiving Sightings

Along with this plump turkey and the flock which followed her across the road, Saturday was fat with animal sightings. The first sighting of the day was not far from these tasty afternoon delights, they were three coyotes which hopped up on the wall as I watched from the car. It was my first coyote sighting in Shenadoah, they are mostly nocturnal and relatively uncommon; exciting! Then the hikers of the day and I watched a mother bear and three cubs foraging, followed shortly by a ruffled grouse which flew off as we walked by. A weeks worth of sightings packed into one day. Wow!


A Red Eft Newt having a bite to eat trail side near "the Portal" in the south district.


A cold dragonfly warming his bright eyes in the morning.


A two inch long skull which must have belonged to a muskrat with a nice safe home next to the stream and under some large overhanging rocks.


The ridge of a mini Seneca Rocks like formation off of Brown Mtn. and the Shenandoah valley to the west.


The best way to see this great park, at 50mpg its not a bad way to commute either.

Gift of the Fog

Like sight, sounds are muted in the fog. Even when the water level is up and pounds off the tops of Shenandoah's cliff bands it seems to somehow land softer. With rain gear we prepare to shield ourselves but find that our warm bodies keep our cotton dry, and the waterproofs remain packed. Then the sun breaks through and all the branches glisten. Sounds are amplified and we hear the crunch of the mother bear and her cub foraging on the not to distant slopes. The fog has taken away our senses and given them back. Now, we can see into the valley, but we are grateful for the whole process.

Happy and Sad Thoughts

I found myself wandering a narrow park boundary road in the gloom of the rain.
As I passed a broken cliff I noticed something hanging from the upper and most vertical reaches, and the memories flooded back. It was a gym class style rope hanging just low enough that a deft jump to the leaf covered ledge would put one mid-cliff. From the ledge a dangerous down-climb/slide looked to be the path of least resistance. No doubt, this had been the plan enacted by the same brilliant child (along with unsuspecting friends) who had stolen the rope from, well, wherever the rope was stolen from.
It has been nearly twenty years since my first backwoods Rappahannock County climbing experience, which so quickly came rushing to the present. I was filled with joy and pleasure as I reminisced on the similarities laid out before me. How high that little cliff stood, and how tall I felt on top, will never fade.
Yes, it's amazing I made it this far.

A short distance ahead I parked the car and entered private property.
You can't see it from the road but If there were a trail it would be under a minute hike through a picturesque canyon before arriving at the base of the falls. Shorter, in fact, than any of the park's hikes to falls. This is not in the park, there is no trail, just no trespassing signs, no scenic view points, no benches for contemplation. In fact, there is no evidence humans spend any time at this thirty foot falls at all, except for the trash. This beautiful place has not been preserved, situated just outside park boundary it is what all park land would now be had it not been preserved, and it stinks. It stinks because of the two rotting deer carcasses thrown off the road above. It stinks because no one enjoys this place, and because the the stream is clogged with beer cans, buckets, tires, and a 16 quart carrying can for 100 proof liquor.
It stinks, and it makes me love the park that much more.



I believe I grow a bit every time I go into the woods.
Every time I learn something new and wonder about something I don't know. Growth happens from hurting, healing, and laughing through it all. I doubt the big old tree pictured below knew what it would become when its roots were ripped from the ground and it fell to the forest floor. Today, three trees grow straight up from what was the side of the original fallen tree.
Today I might have grown up two, maybe three bits.

Old News

I fight through my mixed media emotions to bring you several stories which are old news. The big story was certainly the fall leaves. Basically gone. But that's not quite the whole story, the bands of wind protected Yellow Poplars and a few others still streak their brilliant paths up the hollows. The above picture shows what it looks like from the top of Old Rag.


Although it's been over a week now since the printing I have to show the beautiful personification poem printed on the front page of the Oct. 22 edition of the Rappahannock News. It is entitled Autumn Spectacular. I have always loved the downtown Sperryville tree it refers to. The picture can be clicked on and enlarged so you can read the poem off to the tree's side or I have retyped the poem at the bottom of this post with the permission of the author Al Simpson, he's my grandpa!

I don't know
But I've been told
If you keep on dancing
You'll never grow old - Steve Miller Band
Grandpa is 91. In July I watched him party till 1am, last weekend he was out dancing again, I am proud.

In other media outlets Fox 5 was in the park last Monday the 26th exploring. They found us, and I was in short interview on live TV. Here is the link.




Autumn Spectacular
By Al Simpson

Ohhhh, I am
So beautiful
So magnificent, so glorious
So wonderful to view

When the sun shines
Upon me
I glow, I sparkle
Each leaf of me
Ablaze with color
Red and yellow
Orange and green
And everything in-between
I am a living rainbow

I do a tango
Dancing with the wind
I sparkle in the sunshine
I embrace the breeze
I am so beautiful

I am a cameo
Captured for a time
Truly a favored tree
Displaying such design

I am the queen of Main Street
The belle they come to see
I am the crown jewel
Of Sperryville's autumn

Some call me "Big Red"
Some call me "The Tree"
Some think of me
As crimson
Some say burgundy

I prefer Scarlet
But call me what you will
Just come to see me
I'll pose for you

And share my beauty
With all who live
In our community
I am so beautiful!

Scarlet Maple

Counting Ravens

If you've never stared of into the distance than your life is a shame. -Counting Crows




Watching a raven fly in a heavy wind atop Old Rag Mtn. is the coolest thing ever. Ravens are the Cirque du Soleil of the avian aviators and with this weekends fog, rain, snow, and wind they were out in force. I would highly recommend sitting on a rock and watching them until the shivering becomes to much, than do some pushups, some jumping jacks, warm up and watch them again.

Falling

For many years I was self-appointed inspector of snowstorms and rainstorms...
-Henry David Thoreau

Fog adds a new mystique to the forest, as does brightly colored rain jackets!

Be it leaves, temperatures, rain, or snow, the woods of Shenandoah are precipitating. It may not be what you expected but it can be beautiful. Waterfalls run higher volumes, and what could be more stunning than a snow or ice storm in fall colors.
But be carefull, the unexpected breeds unpreparedness and you can find yourself a long way from the trailhead if you get hurt. Be safe, hire a guide if you want to stay safer, otherwise we will see you out there!

Leaf Looking

Bright Maples like this one dot the entire park, and rain or shine its a great time to get out to see them.


Purple Aster flowers on the flanks of a back country bridge, Asters bloom all throughout fall and add yet another color to the patchwork.



Lunch at the lowest of White Oak Canyons falls where the leaves are not quite peak yet.


Another great Shen view through the leaves.

the Bear and the Breathtaking

Between the bear and the breathtaking views is a place we call Shenandoah. It's a place were the leaves are turing early this year and the cold winds are coming. It's a place where you might see a bear, coyote, turkey, or bobcat in the wild anytime. It's also the place where in the last couple days you might have seen the Peace Corps or Aramark staff laughing, playing games, or traipsing through the woods on a Shenandoah Mountain Guides lead activity.
Here's a quick slice of the last week.


The flying squirrel soars out towards the valley at Aramark's picnic.


Peace Corps staff working through their game/race on the summit of Blackrock Peak.


Rattler getting in some good rays on a talus slope.


Aramark staff playing games at the Skyland lodge lawn.


Before climbing forty feet up a big tree this bear decided it was time to use the little tree for a good butt scratchin.

Footprints

Watch how easily this 400lb bear climbs the tree!

Weekend Explorer

With many trips comes many personalities, this week we had the pleasure of introducing Emmy awarded host Jeffrey Lehmann and the film crew for Weekend Explorer to Shenandoah. As usual we had a blast! So much so that after the scheduled rock climbing and rappelling was finished, Jeffrey changed up the days itinerary and headed deeper into the woods so we could show him some more! Jeffrey and the crew know how to find the good stuff, and as the mornings fog turned into evening mist we hiked back up the hill 40 pound HD camcorder in hand, a bit tired but happy with the footage and the fun!

Based out of California the award winning, PBS television series, Weekend Explorer takes you along to incredibly scenic destinations around the United States and the world and it's about time Shenandoah made the list! But don't take my word for it, the link to Jeffrey's site is www.weekendexplorer.com, our show should air sometime around June 2010. It was great to meet the crew along with Jeffrey and to show them around our home. We wish them the best of luck with the show.

Rain or Shine

... and sometimes the colors seem to shine even more when its raining!

Summer Sun Fading

Well the temps are starting to cool in Shenandoah and the ideal hiking/climbing days are arriving. That's not to say you won't be seeing us at a swimming hole cooling off after a hard hike or possibly even canyoneering in a wetsuit, some of the best trips from the last week or so have put us in the water for at least a quick break. Here's a couple pics from last week, in the water or not.

Climbing the Sentinel in the bright sun and warming up, before jumping in swimming hole number two on Saturdays' adventure race birthday party.

What can I say, I'm a man who loves butterflies. A Red Admiral suns itself next to a pool.

It was nice enough out last week that we just wore the wetsuit tops for our canyoneering trip! (It's not quite as steep as this picture makes it look but it is as fun)!

Noticed this Monarch Caterpillar munching some of its favorite food, the Milkweed, near Skyland lodge several days ago.

Good Evenings

After a great hike in the meadow I had the chance for a quick hike to the top of Compton peak on the ride home. It's sunsets like this that good evenings are made of, of course the cliff and the Mountain Ash help as well.

Bug-eyed in the Woods

Walking through the woods in Shenandoah this time of year can leave one a bit bug-eyed. There is so much to see, the big summer wildflowers, the butterflies, the bugs and the bear all vie for your attention. Here's a couple the folks on my hikes and I have seen in the past couple days.

A Locust hanging on a lichen covered tree near the Nicholson Hollow trail.

A Spicebush Swallowtail lighted on a Cardinal flower Stream side.

The biggest Wild Turkey leading the flock through the ferns of the Limberlost trail.

You Can Too!

She did it!

Tick Check!

Out again this year for our annual three day training with George Washington Universities Trails Guides and again it was a great year! The student leaders learned a multitude of wilderness leadership skills from LNT (Leave No Trace) to land navigation and many things in between. Pictured above students do a thorough tick check after a cross country bushwack orienteering session. Students left more prepared to lead their peers into the wilderness but hopefully no blood sucking, disease carrying, arachnid, parasites.

Blue Mountains

This plaque adorns the top of a headstone in one of Shenandoah's many cemeteries where the families of the deceased parkland residents are allowed to continue burying their kin. Click on the picture to enlarge it and read the window into a locals final thoughts.

Extreme Kids

Whether you are a kid, or a kid at heart, spending seven days in the woods is extreme.
Rock climbing, rappelling, water sliding, white water tubing, climbing mountains and carrying everything you need for five days on your back are also extreme. Good job ladies, you're stronger for it.

Respect Wildlife

One of the seven principles of Leave No Trace is Respect Wildlife, and it makes sense. If we harm the creatures whose home we pass through, that wilderness loses part of the reason we go there in the first place. When it comes to Crawdads, and my personal desire to show and teach on trips sometimes I pick one up to show just how cool they are. Crawdads (Crayfish for you northerners) are a great indicator species as they can not live in all but the cleanest of streams. So if you see them dying in a stream near you, watch out, there are pollution issues. Watch out if you pick them up as well, sometimes they get the last laugh.
(No Crawdads were hurt in the posting of this blog)

Making a Waterfall

Check.

Dam, now that's a lot of fun.

Rappelling Down Waterfalls

Check.

If it's not on the life list, you might want to put it there, most folks think it's quite the rush. I guess we just think Rappelling the biggest waterfall in Shenandoah is another great way to cool off in a beautiful place... Well okay, It's kind of a rush for us too.
(click to zoom in and see person rappelling)

The Best Thing

I was asked at the beginning of the week what the best/coolest thing I did this summer was. Hands down, the best thing was being best man at my brother Jonathan's wedding. But there's a whole slew of other great things going on as well. Here's a quick slice.

Old Fashioned

"get old fashioned, put the brakes on these fast, fast wheels. Oh, lets get old fashioned back to the way things used to be." -Frightened Rabbit

Sorry it's been a few weeks since I've posted, I happened to dunk my camera in the water again and, well, it might take one or two more of the good tippers out there till you see another picture on this blog. Just good old fashioned words and imagination for now.
Imagine we're stopped.
Motionless on a trail weaving through the shade of an Oak forest. Light pierces the canopy illuminating the ferns into a patchwork carpet of neon and dark greens split by a ribbon of brown trail. Amid the green there is one spot which is pitch black. Twenty feet off and frozen just as we are, the black spot stares back at us. It is a small black bear cub and for what might be a five second eternity we all hold our breath and examine our abrupt situation... and each other. She's gorgeous, we watch, she bolts, faster than we thought possible, thru the ferns and gone. It was a bear sighting in the wilderness and as we take a deep breath and move on, we cant help but wonder. "Where's momma?"

Come get old fashioned, take a hike with us and enjoy the place the natives called the daughter of the stars, Shenandoah.

Sláinte to Snakes

6/13-14/09
Sláinte is Gaelic for "to your health" and I just wanted to toast my hikers (one of which was Irish) as well as the mellow, good- tempered snakes we watched along the trail. The Black Rat snake pictured above put on quite a show climbing this slippery metal sign post as we watched in awe. An incredible weekend all around!

Almost Alpine

Yesterday (June 9) Jeremy and I (Chad) finished a climb we began June 1. We were off the wall three days in the middle due to rain and work but spent the other six days in unbroken climbing. The climb begins in the valley roughly three quarters of a mile and maybe 13 hundred vertical feet from where the above picture was taken. The climb starts where the river cuts through the rock band which ascends the mountains on its flanks. We traversed up and over more than a mile of rock to complete what we believe to be the first ascent of the longer rock band. Located less than two hours from home in West VA, we figured, "Why go to Pakistan to climb a giant choss pile, when we've got a great one in our own back yard?"


Staying as close as possible to the middle of the wall we climbed the route "free" (without the aid of using our gear to hold our weight, except in the case of a fall) and rate it at around 5.9+. In 46 pitches (rope lengths between belays) we climbed from the start until the cliff band broke down in the woods near the mountain top and finished with one additional pitch up the mountain's highest pinnacle. With a very long average pitch length of around 150 ft we clocked in around 6900 diagonal feet of climbing. Despite a massive amount of loose rock, neither of us took the ever present, ever looming, huge swinging fall.


Mountain Laurel was in full bloom and we enjoyed it immensely except for the many times we had to climb through it. Mountain Laurel has a sweet, mellow fragrance, but you don't want your face buried in the stuff, it grows thick, sharp and creates a heck of a lot of rope drag. Seems to sort of want to push you off, or snap at inopportune moments as well, beautiful stuff really though.


The diciest of pitches were more akin to climbing a Jenga tower than rock with precariously stacked blocks and sharp rope cutter edges. On one such pitch I had three separate instances where a hold dislodged just as I began to trust it. Once, when I was very young and climbing trees at Grandpa's he praised how I almost always had three limbs firmly placed before moving the fourth; I've always remembered that.



I find that after my favorite vacations I most often come home tired, sore, and content with life. Join SMG for rock climbing or any of our other trips and I can just about guarantee two out of three of those, and that ain't bad!

The Long Way Round

Through a sea of lichen we tiptoe. Weaknesses in the rock put our strengths to the test and we pick our way through the choss, brush, and impeccable rock. Dull constant stress flares with the sharp crack of a hold breaking, puffs of smoke mark its ricochet path downward to the trees followed by the snapping branches, long rolling and finally the silence of rest, while from sunrise to set we move slowly, steadily over rock.

We hunker hanging anchored to the wall as fierce winds, thunder, hail, rain and lightning rage past our tiny shelter. We had just enough time to make it here for this temporary relief, but the background noise stress never abates. I guess this is what guides do for fun; it doesn't always feel like that.

Hungry for Life

The days are longer and we're packing them full. We have been out, about and keeping busy with hikes, climbs, and teaching. Still we thirst for more. Today Jeremy and I (Chad) embark on a huge climbing venture. The mountains have called, wish us luck, we will see you soon.

Great Flower

Lousy name

Lousewort

Go West Young Matt

There comes a time in many a Shenandoah Mountain Guides life where the we feel the the call of the west. Our beloved Shenandoahs begin to feel a tad small and a foray into the unknown beckons. Inevitably we must answer this call, to find, that on returning the fondness for home has grown stronger. Mountain guide Matt (pictured above yesterday, 5-17-09, atop Seneca Rocks) must now answer his call as he heads to Wyoming's Tetons for the summer. Be safe Matt, you will be missed.

Pinxter lined

Under a cloak of fog or in a light rain the trail is slick and you find yourself head down, focused on the footwork ahead. Then you are overcome by it. Like walking into your favorite bakery early in the morning, the smell envelopes you. Taking a deep breath and filling your lungs with the pleasing fragrance you coast to a stop. There you are, deep in the woods surrounded by a shrub tunnel of Pinxter Flower as the trail winds through. The bright and delicate pinks pop all around. You take a moment to capture the feeling and fragrance. For a time you pause to wonder why one of these Pink Azalea shrubs gets to wear so many corsages. Leaving the flower the smell lingers with you and the moment is saved for sometime later.

Unfurling

Spring is in the air and with much rain comes much mushrooms, mountain climbs and memories. This spring we've seen everything from Lady slipper Orchids to the elusive medicinal Birch Chaga hiding in the neon greens of the new forest, and as always the more you're out, the more you see.

On a Boat

Three days on a boat rain or shine, always a good time. Late night paddles in the fog by the full moon leave you with life time memories. Dodging storms and exploring shorelines is always a learning experience.

Wet Wonders

Witchhazel's spring yellow pops against the grey fog and boulders of upper Old Rag.


Showy Orchis blooms are just one of the many spring flowers loving these rains.


Just the basal leaves of a Wood Sorrel are picture worthy.


Many kinds of fungus are soaking up the rain along with the flowers. These ones have a fleshy skin that seems to hold a jello jigglier trapped inside.


I had the opportunity to go Morel hunting with dad and grandpa. Above, dad jukes his way across another high water stream crossing before the search can continue.

Now it's your turn to go on a hunt, we will start with a warm up then move on to the real thing.
Pictured below is a Scarlet Tanager, see how quick you can find the bright bird.


Too easy right.

Now on to the real thing.
Morel hunt.
The little picture is what you are looking for, time yourself and see how your hunt skills compare.



Find those culinary delights, 3, 2, 1, GO!



How did you do?
>10 seconds = Ouch, If it was a snake you'd be dead. There is a bright side though, no one will mind if you know about their secret Morel hunting spots. Although you won't be coming home with much you will be privy to the best patches around.

5 - 9 seconds = You might still come home with more ticks than tasty treats, but keep practicing, your on the trail.

2 - 4 seconds = Alright, alright, if you fry em up with a lot of butter you could break even on the calories expenditure v reward scale. Nice Job.

1 second or less = It's a Mericle! You should be hunting with the Big Fish himself, giving spare mushrooms to the needy and frying those things with breakfast, lunch, dinner, corn dogs, oreos and whatever else. Give us a call when you need a job!

High Angle Rescue

This year the Eastern High Angle Rescue Training (EHART) was held on the Blue Ridge Parkway in NC from April 20 to 24. It was a great success! Here at SMG our full time staff were given the opportunity to be a part of the 09 training Cadre and to help instruct the 36 student class. We were happy to oblige, and proud to join this highly professional and exceptional group.



From the moment we arrived Sunday the 19th till the moment we departed Friday the 24th the days were packed with training, planning, teaching and evaluating. Breakfast usually began at 6:30 am and many days did not draw to a close until the finish of planning meetings or night operations post midnight! The above picture was taken during a night evolution on top of Grandfather Mtn where one of the stations was a rappel off the swinging bridge by headlamp. The wind gust were in the fifties, and this student can be seen to have spun several times in the few seconds it took to reach the ground.



Several nights there was a short window of free time after dinner and before evening meetings. While during the day it was purely training at beautiful climbing areas like the above pictured Table Rock, in the backs of minds there was plotting. Several instructors and students could not ignore the fact that if one was to just skip dinner the free time window could be expanded just long enough for some incredible rock climbs to fall beneath our feet!

In the end, we were all proud to see the extremely competent group of rescuers head back to their home parks. Lives will be saved, and we look forward to the rescue stories brought back next year.

As Good As It Gets

Three days in the incredible Shenandoah backcountry, wildflowers in bloom, snows followed by swims and just the right amount of grunt to make you sleep sound and wake a bit sore.

A raven swoops the Old Rag summit and as with most of nature, we watch in awe.

An Early Saxifrage blooming out of what appears to be pure rock next to a waterfall/slide.

Egrets and Easter

From a canoe or kayak slipping silent through a stream, river, or lake you never now what you will see. One week ago we watched as a fish flapped violently fifty feet above our heads, clutched in the talons of an Osprey and headed towards the chirping nest on the Thorton river. Then on Good Friday there was the treat of watching Egrets from the water of a local lake. The spring rains make local streams runable an who knows what we will see on the next trip.

The Egret standing in the tree on the top left corner is hard to see unless you click on the pic and blow it up.


Sunrise Easter morning on top of Red Oak Mtn.


A Yellow Adder's Tongue bloom seen on last Thursdays hike.

and More Training

Today two helicopters zipped in from Delaware and D.C. for some training with the Shenandoah High angle rescue crew. The weather was clear and cold, ice hung on the sides on the Skyline Drive and the wind whipped even before the aircraft arrived. Park service personnel and volunteers alike were battered by the cold wind chop throughout the training evolutions. Watching a loaded litter, basket, or jungle penetrator ascend into the hovering craft inspires confidence in the rescuers who deftly control them.

Spring has Sprung

Watch your step, there's some little guys out there!

Forecast

Sometimes a rainy day forecast is dead wrong!
I love those days.
So do the snails.

So does the Bloodroot.

Be careful with Lassie though, he's not so good at the rain swollen stream crossings and occasionally needs a rescue!

A Walk in the Fog

When it's so foggy you don't know if you're looking off a twenty foot cliff or a two hundred foot cliff... be careful, it might be a two hundred foot cliff! But if you've seen the boulders and had the urge to become a bird, well then you know you've been to the top of the world. Keep vigilant. It's a long slippery walk down.

Training, Training

This year we will again be working diligently with the Old Rag Mountain Steward program and the park service, to help out, educate, and keep folks safe on a place we hold dear.

Over the weekend this years ORMS volunteers gathered at the Pinnacles research station for some pre-season training. The high intensity teaching was lead by SOLO's school of wilderness medicine along with the NPS and quick words now and again from us. Saturday was misty, with likely accident weather on Old Rag. Sunday we basked in the intermittent sun and when it was all over and the lights dimmed, a few SMG guides worked high angle rescue scenarios till the light was no more.

Old Rag, as seen from the Skyline Drive.

If they are blooming, they will come.

The round-lobed Liverleaf is up! It's spring, and soon the people will come, but they don't seem to be out much yet.  Yesterday, 3-26, was a rainy day for a hike with a travel writer for the San Francisco Chronicle and we didn't see another hiker.  It was yet another great day which felt nothing like work but rather a walk in the woods with an old climbing buddy.  We did notice some of these spring bloomers alongside the trail, but it was too wet to pull out the camera. This picture was taken a few days ago on Sunday the 22nd's guided hike. 

?

If your first time rock climbing looked like this, and the weather was perfect, would you choose to go again? Where do you go when you start at the top? Do you just call it quits, or do you dig a little deeper, and risk getting buried? 

Falling Waters

It's amazing how much ice a few cold days can bring to Whiteoak Canyon. Dad, the dog and I took the opportunity to check it out and were not disappointed. Here, the water hits an ice speed bump on its cascading path.

Hardy Mountain Life

Another rainy winter day on Old Rag leaves me with wet feet and sore from carrying a pack full of useless climbing gear. Warming up for the coming season I guess. It was good to see Jr. the dog, guardian of the mountain, high at his summit. I think he, like many animals before will care about this mountain far more than any of us ever will. Jr. must be out for his morning constitutional from his home at the mountain base or maybe he's up for the day waiting for some hikers to walk down in the dark. I know I appreciated his company the last time he accompanied me down the dark trail.



Had to take notice of some pretty diverse mountain moss while looking for a little dry rock to climb.

On the Lookout

With the leaves down we are out, about, and on the lookout. Lately we've been looking for fresh ice and boulders to climb but mostly we are looking for crazy trees. Recently there's been a few neat new spots, far off the trail we found another old overgrown cemetery on Old Rag, and a CCC (Civilian Conservation Corp) camp near Hawksbill gap. Can't seem to get lucky and find any crazy trees though. Oh well, maybe next time.

Toppin the T-bird

SMG guide Jeremy looks on, as his wife Christina takes to the challenge of the last vertical step of the Thunderbird smear.

Wonderland

When the weather is this nasty in the south, the schools all close. When school is closed after-school programing is closed. When after school "work" is closed, cars that get driven too much can be worked on. When I'm at the parents' place and I can't drive my car, it seems two options are presented to me: I can enjoy a quiet day with the fam, or I can jump on Dad's bike and head to the park. I chose the latter, pumped the tires, greased the chain, threw some hot tea in the pack and hit the field.

The family home looks out on a long corn field flowing into the landscape-dominating facade of Old Rag Mtn. a few miles distant. The field is a shortcut I deemed the best way as the bike crunched through last night's ice and into yesterday's snow. Making my way across, the tires spun but with some effort the ripped foam handle-grips obeyed and in no time I was passing the lake where Mom and I went ice skating last week. Rt. 231 was impressively clear, but Revercombs Corner and Nethers Mill were still solid ice as I peddle-slip, peddle-slipped my way to Old Rag's upper parking lot.

I parked the trusty Mtn. Track bike in the closest spot as I was the first one on the Mtn. today... well, actually second, the one car in the lot sat running and I judged that the driver might have spent a cold night out by the sounds of the heater running on full blast and the snores emanating from the open window.

Donning Yaktrax, I sipped a cup of hot tea and cracked the first few steps in the unbroken trail. Upward into the thickening mist I went until I passed my second, then third pileated woodpecker of the day. Each large red-headed bird letting me come a little closer than the last. Maybe it's the Tao of the single mountaineer without much of a job, and even less for possessions, who doesn't know what he's missing, but it's these types of experiences which leave me feeling so blessed. With every step a little more mist could be seen clinging to the surrounding needles, leaves, trees, and rocks till nearly the the whole world was frosted white. It was as if I had stepped with my cartoonish bright clothes into a black and white photo of a winter wonderland. Even the spider webs glistened with the fine frozen mist clinging heavily.

Nearing the top I noticed the cold wind losing its nip. It seemed a warm breeze was coming from the south and the higher I climbed the more snow was blowing off the trees. I stood atop the Mtn. in a thick fog with a cup of tea and watched as a bright white spot on a tree became clear and dripped. Snow and ice underfoot was becoming slush and soaking my feet. I headed down, retracing my steps on the ridge trail. The trees were now for the most part wet and the delicate crystalline structures gone with the wind. I must have woken from the surreal dream of hibernation where frozen formations would flourish only to find that it was now spring.

Just before a constricting pile of boulders the trail squeezes down I may have spotted a white rabbit descending. I followed it into the steep hole and when I came out below I was again in wonderland. The Mtn. had put back on its winter finest and I turned to my vast (minuscule) meteorologic knowledge to contemplate. Since normally as you travel up in elevation the temperature drops three to five degrees for every 1000 ft. of gain and today's weather seemed to be doing exactly the opposite, I decided it must be a temperature inversion. Satisfied, I poured myself a hot tea and proceeded down. Making it back to my noble red steed for the day I found that the only other car in the lot still housed the now warm fellow. His windows were up, the car off and he appeared alive, so I didn't bother his slumber. Placing my climbing helmet on my head I prepared to mount this fine piece of mountain bike machinery.

Stepping the right pedal down the left came up and correctly bumped the pretty sweet kick-stand and it popped up into the riding position. Now I don't if you've ever had the opportunity to ride such a high quality piece of two wheeled zero emissions vehicle delight down the steep road below the upper lot when it's coated in solid ice, but I don't mind telling you something about the experience. It's great! I had now embarked on by far the most adventurous part of my day and the ice coated brakes assured it would not stop before the hill had ended. The wheels slid, ice cracked out resistance, snow crushed and slush soared sideways. Parts of that old gem of a bicycle may have rattled off, the ripped foam grips ripped some more and if there's a record for the ice speed bike descend of that road I'm sure I bettered it. Even with all the speed my down hill trajectory was anything but straight. The few thoughts in my head not related to holding on for dear life consisted of wondering if the guy sleeping was really waiting on a snowplow, hoping that a snowplow did not come right now, a few quick prayers and a possible curse. Way to many years of doing way to many dumb things at way to young an age had quite possibly culminated in this moment and managed to keep me afloat till the road leveled. A quick thank you Lord went up and the rest of the ride was a cool breeze back home.

Icy Paths

Last weeks ice storm crystalized the park, closed down sections and devastated many trees. Every year these storms wreak havoc on the roads and trails. They are as dangerous as they are destructive but with a watchful eye and a safety consciousness normally reserved for higher peaks I fully recommend going out to see the unparalleled beauty which awaits!
If your worried about it, I would also recommend a guide.

Expanding the Vision

My (SMG guide Chad) grandfather Allan Simpson is a lifelong conservationist, and at ninety years of age he has proven he is in it for the long run. In the 1960s he worked as an editor of the Canton Repository newspaper in Canton, Ohio, where he wrote a weekly column aimed at drumming up support for the preservation of the Ohio and Erie Canalway. Working with the help of Ohio congressman Ralph Regula a park was created and has since expanded to span 110 miles in northeastern Ohio. At SMG we our proud of our conservationist ideals and look with admiration to those who led the way for so many years.



This sign features my grandfather alongside Ralph Regula and can be seen at the Everett Bridge on the Ohio and Erie Canal Towpath. (Click on the picture to enlarge it and read what it says.)

Prescription

Take a double dose of a day hike, on ice, by way of a swift run, follow with a visual side of a mid-winter violet. Don't forget a good nights sleep, a merry Christmas, and a happy New Year!

High Mountain Coral

Between the Sunday morning early church service and the "special family lunch" at 1 p.m. little bro and I decided there was just enough time. My bet was that the freezing mist and frigid temps on Marys Rock might amount to something special. I was right, but by the time we had it together and made our way to the trailhead it was 11:15, so we would be pushing time. No matter, we like a good challenge, and we were off!
Every step crackled as we beat feet in our push for the summit two miles upward. We were aware that one slip on the ice- covered trail would at least spell a tardy lunch ticket. We moved quickly but cautiously. Crunching upward we were much more concerned about the heavy laden tree branch/land mines that hung snow-encrusted above our heads. In the late pre-park days, the untimely demise of the Old Rag community pastor was brought on by a falling branch and I have taken note. Not wanting to follow suit, Bret and I listened for the gunshot crack of an overhead branch with each cold breeze that cut through the dormant forest.
A foggy wind had battled its way through these same trees the night before, evidenced by every twig, tree, and blade of grass we passed along the trail. Nature's war had been waged in the black of night when the violent and oppressive wind attempted to massacre the seemingly defenseless snow by pushing it into the valley where it would surely be melted by daybreak. Millions of tiny wind beaten snow particles were pushed down the mountain, but they had a plan. Searching for solace the particles sped up to whip around the obstacles blocking their paths and in doing so created wind eddies on the calm lee sides of the obstructions. Some slight particles were swirled back around and caught spinning in the relative warmth. These desperate particles eventually found another weary chip of wood or stone or snow on which to cling in the shelter of the obstacles. The night wind whipped and the fog fought down the mountain as more particles clung on in the building shelters. The cold wind blew furiously in the early morning light but the harder it pushed the more the tiny draftees joined the ranks. Armies soon backed every brave wind warrior holding the front lines and the shelters grew longer.
By the time we arrived the fog and wind's front lines had retreated down the mountain and now lingered over Sperryville. Trillions of tiny snow soldiers still held their positions flagged out behind their forest protectors as they held the high ground. Save for a few cold slaps in the face from the bitter, defeated wind, Bret and I were permitted to take pictures of the pure white war zone.
By the time we reached Marys Rock we were on track to be late for lunch but well loaded with pictures of the high mountain which now looked to me more like an undersea coral cliff where instead of tiny life fighting the tides, snow had here defeated the wind.
Stomachs growling, and throwing most caution to the stiff mountain wind, we ran back down the trail. Caution now behind us we possibly even exceeded the thirty-five mph speed limit as we drove down the mountain. We were twenty-three minutes late, which meant we were right on time; the food was just coming out of the oven!

Misty Mountain Hikes

These days Shenandoah has been too wet to climb rock, too warm to climb ice and at times too foggy to see your hand in front of your face. Lucky for hikers it's very often the company, not the contrast that makes for a great hike. And when the fog rolls back and the mountains come out it can be even more memorable!

Thanksgiving Blessings

In our first fifteen years of business SMG/Teamlink have been blessed by many, many things. The opportunities and abilities to educate, conserve, and give back in and to the areas we love have been incredible. Spectacular trips have become the norm, and with the early onset of winter temperatures we were able to put the icing on the turkey!



Although we do not guide any ice climbing trips professionally I couldn't resist taking the family out for a little ice adventure in a cold corner of Shenandoah. The trip was blessed with no wind, many safe first time climbs, and family memories.



SNP has always been blessed with good gear climbing and the chance to climb a tower like this tucked into the woods of SNP is always a blessing.

History

Walking the Weakley Hollow fire road that divides Old Rag Mt from the bulk of the park lands we are surrounded by the history of the place. We gaze upon the old cemetery with the unmarked rocks set at the head and foot of the graves. The fallen foliage reveals more of the walls, stone piles, and old roads which remain from the hollow folk who lived here before the park was established. A closer look into the woods might reveal a burnt tree, or cabin charred by the historic fire of 2000. The rusted remains of a Model T lie in stark contrast to what geologist believe to be billion year old boulders.


A few miles up the mountain near Dark Hollow we ponder the history of Pvt John Weakley at his beautifully inscribed headstone. The leaves have fallen around the Cave Cemetery and we can look out in the valley and admire the yellow bands of Tulip Poplar still hanging in the sheltered elevations.
We too can be found hanging on outside during these fall days. The temperatures are great for a hike to a waterfall, or a climbing lesson in the lower and more sunny spots.


Dressed for the cold we enjoyed a sunset atop the mountain while practicing haul systems before the sun set on the years last Old Rag Mountain Steward weekend.
As always, we add to our personal history with every hike through the woods, scramble over Old Rag, or climb up a crack. We intertwine our own histories with those of this great park in this great place, and we soak up every minute of it.

Running Ragged

Another weekend running ourselves ragged with the Old Rag Mountain Steward program. It's great to feel like you are making a positive difference on a place you care about so much.

On Top of the World

Sub-freezing temps and wind didn't keep us from persevering to the mountain top with a DC gov group for this spectacular sunset. Good times.


Off the beaten trail there is much to see. Here's a section of the seldem seen Greasy Falls in the north district.

Frosty Mtn Air

These days the air seems as clear as the mornings are cool. With the leaves recently vacating the high peaks new views appear on the trail like frosty footprints. The Indian summer has ended and we at SMG are loving the crispness of the fall.


Passed this talus slope still covered in frost at around 10:30am on the 23rd.




Long evening shadows on Old Rag after a rainy Mt. Steward training day.

Fall Findings

There's a lot of falling water like this in SNP and these spots are only getting nicer as the leaves get brighter.



Watched this five foot black snake down climb the slippery river rock without the advantage of sticky rubber shoes, or feet, but he was really good at smearing (climbing technique)!



Had a great night out just off the AT in Md complete with late nite games around the table.

Famous Days

What a great long hike with some famous folks from the Netherlands (sorry I can't put their names online). We all very much enjoyed the motivated hike over Old Rag, up the fire road, and down Corbin run. Unfortunately all our searching for bear was to no avail, but the gaggle of turkey was very cool to see. The friendship and foliage weren't to shabby either.

Come get it

Fall fireworks are here, come check them out.



These Jenkins hollow ruins are worth checking out as well.

News from the Bear Loop

Noticed four separate bear on the Oct 2 bear loop hike! With so many bear in a small area it's no surprise to see this warning sign. But if you look close at the sign what may surprise you, are the two camo stick bugs.(click on the pic to blow it up)



Our fourth bear of the day, and unlike the first three this one (the biggest) was not afraid. We slowly walked the trail, snapping pictures and passing while the bear rooted around and wrestled a log for the grubs it hid underneath.



We must have mossied a little to slow because just after this picture the bear stomped his paw at us in agitation. Trying not to look directly into his eyes (a sign of aggression) we moved on down the trail. He stomped both front paws a second time and we were glad to be out of there and to notify others on the trail along the way.

Outdoor art

Here's some pieces I liked from the Hikers Art Show held in Shenandoah this week. Too cool to leave behind, I picked up my copies with a point and shoot. There's much more to see, if you can make it out to the show!

Six Bear, Day Two

Wow! Two days in a row we have tied my personal best. Six bear sightings in one day! We may have even seen the same mother with two cubs that was caught on film Monday. The family was again up a tree, and we again saw three others. We may have to rename the eight mile loop "the bear loop" (formerly known as "Jeremy's really cool loop, where you see lots of really cool stuff").
I was unable to get any good shots of the bear, so instead here's a picture of Dolly. Dolly is a Skyland local who I saw on the way in. Dolly is also a diva that loves to have her picture taken, but how could you not when you look that good?

Six Bear, One Day

Some guys have all the luck! Today three Danish fellows got the full value Shenandoah experience. The weather was perfect, the views were incredible and we enjoyed FOUR separate bear sightings. The most crazy was the one were we stopped mid-step due to the noise above our heads. Looking straight up, we were alarmed to see three faces peering straight back. Simultaneously we back stepped and grabbed at cameras. The bear family scampered down mom first, with heads peeking from the trunk sides all the while.

Walking back from the lake yesterday with my father and brother I found three four-leaf clovers in the field. I guess some guys have all the luck.

Reasonable

This evening (9- 14 -08) the sunset over Old Rag mountain gave me one more stunning reason to show the place I'm from, to the people I meet.

The hard way down

Ink Blot

I don't like spiders either, but how cool is this guy?

Wild,Wild Life

Mountain Steward Weekend Aug 30 - 31 08



Two 'Astyanax' Red-spotted Purple butterflies on the summit of Old Rag, and I think they are in love.



These two poor ladies were offered shelter from the shower under this summit area boulder, little did they know what wild creatures lay in wait.



And here's why we don't carelessly leave our food on the summit. This food-attracted bear likes the hiker scraps, but may soon become dangerous and need to be relocated or worse. He needs to change his wicked ways ... or we do.

High Water

8 - 28 - 08
Don't think we saw anyone else brave enough (or dumb enough) out hiking all day. The waterfalls sure are spectacular when its been raining for two days.

Downstream ...

... awaits
Watersnakes
Put fear of free-



falls behind
tennis shoe wake.
Five new canyoneers,
hooked on a line.
At least ... three made it back this time.
Just joshing,
all loved the day through.
Question is,



how would you do?

Trails

8/18 - 8/20, 08

Here's the GWU Trails guides cooking up some good grub next to another SNP swimming hole. Each year we spend a few great days camping, training getting to know these trail guides. It's always a great trip but this year will be hard to top. With sightings of bears and snakes, the swimming, and the lost person training evolution this year was one for the books.

This week in review

Looking back on another spectacular Shenandoah week. There was lots of climbing and rappelling with the sheriff's camp as well as on the high cliffs of SNP, hiking, water slides. We topped it off with a great evening to full moon hike in the big meadow. Looking forward to this week, hope you are too.

Good Fun

Old Rag Training?

At 3,291 feet Old Rag mountain is a long hard hike. Although I have hiked it all my life this spring and summer I have had the pleasure of an inordinate amount of time back and forth across the top. The payoff for the strenuous hike is always huge. This year I have enjoyed the bonus write-off of many of these Old Rag summits as training. Training for what the Seattleites refer to as "the mountain". Last week the training paid off and our party of six attained the summit of 14,411 foot Mt. Rainier (without supplemental oxygen! ... which nobody uses). As seen in the pictures the weather was ideal, the conditions and company were incredible. It was a smooth enjoyable ascent and on returning I've begun to wonder one thing. Which mountain was training for which?

LSM

Wanna go rappelling?

Birds of Prey

Cruise up to the Hawksbill Mt. summit at around 10:30 am and not only will you be standing on top of Shenandoah, but you are likely to see one of these guys! The fledgling falcons have been reintroduced to the Hawksbill summit and the NPS serves them breakfast around 10:30. Feel free to ask the friendly, knoledgeable, park ranger questions as they observe and record info on the birds. Take a deep breath, a 360 degree look around, and enjoy the show!

Dirty Jobs

June 7-8, 2008

After two days to and fro, over and around Old Rag Mountain with the steward program, there are a couple things one has in common with this dung beetle. The beetle pictured above was found on the fire road cleaning up after some horses. Mountain stewards have also been found cleaning up after others, in fact they can even be seen picking up a little toilet paper (however unlike the beetle, stewards wear gloves, and do not walk backwards on their heads during the process). In near 100 degree temps hauling large amounts of water, first aid kits, and rescue gear can make a steward feel a bit like the beetle too; it feels like pushing a bunch of ... stuff. But when the sweaty weekend's all said and done the biggest similarity between the two creatures might be the smell!

Life is Good

Caught up with this relaxed reptile on the mountain the other day. The three legged amputee-tail skink sat soaking up some rays while we got a good look at him. Maybe he was so mellow because of the awe-inspiring views, or perhaps after a near death brush with the talons of a raven he learned to sit back and truly enjoy life. Then again, he was probably just slow.

Life in the mountains is good. You know it's the good life when the strong wind hits your back and you begin to lower off a hundred foot cliff. It makes you feel alive, and then you know you're alive. The wind changes directions, hitting you square in the face. You begin to hear the thunder across the valley. The electric sky has become nearly black. You're running, and you can see, hear, smell, and feel the tornado-spawning storm. You round the final, still dry corner of the trail. The ride pulls up, doors and sky open simultaneously, but before the drenching begins you're in.

Baby Steps

5 - 22 - 08

As with most hikes its not the grand vistas or tumbling waters that prove the most memorable, but rather the unexpected along the way.

After we watched the momma Doe lick this newborn clean we think it may have gotten a little confused. Not sure exactly where in the world it belonged the fawn wobble stepped towards our attentive eyes. Maybe realizing the mistake it hesitated nearly close enough for us to reach out and touch. Stumbling sideways and turning around the little guy realized momma was waiting in the other direction and the opening performance continued its unbalanced show on elsewhere in the woods.

After School

I don't know if this falls under Teamlink or Shenandoah Mountain Guides but I figure it's worth putting up the picture.  Every year at the end of the school year we try to do something special for the kids in the after school programs.  This year straight rock climbing didn't seem like enough so we added the cargo net.  So you're halfway up a vertical rock face and you have to leap to a free hanging cargo net; would you be having a ball?

Mountain Stewards

May 10 - 11, 08

The Old Rag Mountain Stewardship program kicked off this cold rainy weekend and we're looking ahead toward an exceptional program!

stew·ard·ship
: the conducting, supervising, or managing of something; especially : the careful and responsible management of something entrusted to one's care
Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary

The SMG staff have been honored and entrusted in working with the park service on the initiation of this program. We will do our best in the careful stewardship of this precious resource.

Between helping folks with directions, litter removal and several sweeps of the mountain we had to take a few moments to play around on some thin Old Rag slab climbs.
















When viewing these pictures you may want to make note of the lack of ropes, the shoes, and the direction of gravity pulling on shirts.

Attending to litter

(and other LNT topics)

May 4 - 9

While the rest of the SMG staff did real work last week, I (Chad) spent the time being trained in the ethics of Leave No Trace. My Master Educator course was held on the 17,000 acre BSA camp Powhatan in Southern Va. The three knowledgeable instructors included Co-founder of LNT Jeff Marion. The course was excellent. With this class I become the final SMG full time staff to be a LNT Master.

One of the many interesting things I learned over the week was that in one study held in Great Smoky Mountains National Park no Lady Slipper Orchids like these pictured above could be found within fifty feet of the trails due to user impact. Props to SNP users, the above were observed just off trail on Old Rag Mountain Saturday 5-10-08

Litter Attending

Had to put up this picture of SMG guide Matt hanging off the side of the cliff litter attending at the tech rescue training. Nice job Matt

High Angle Rescue

April 21 - 26, 2008

"Because gravity,

even more than the sea,

does not forgive."

This years NPS Eastern High Angle Rescue course was held at Buffalo National River, Arkansas. The Buffalo is a long drive from Shenandoah but three SMG staff were able and excited to make the trip. On the trip down, after driving all night, we were thrust into an appropriate rescue course warm up when flagged to the side of the road by a panicked woman next to a minivan. The 37 year old male in the back of the fully loaded van was having a medical emergence, trouble breathing and vomiting. Working through a language barrier Jeremy reported to EMS our exact location while Matt and I evaluated the patient. In ten minutes we turned over our SOAP notes to the local EMS and continued on through the cold Tennessee daybreak.

Once at the Buffalo it was five very full days of rescue training learning everything one needs to know in order to perform a rescue of someone stuck or broken on a cliff. Here's a couple pics from the week.

Jack, ascending a large overhang.


Mike performs a pick off in the Buffalo indoor facility.


Jo Practices ascending during a great day on the cliff.


A little sunset bouldering before the course began.

Tracy, a Buffalo River Rescuer on rappel.

High Angle Technical Rescue

Venture Climbing

4 - 12 - 08

Great weather and Camp Rock Enon rocks make for an unforgetable first climb for many venture crew members.

3 - 27 - 08

Enjoying a great spring break view of Lewis falls!

Adventure on Old Rag

March 22 08

The April 08 edition of National Geographic Adventure magazine states that "Old Rag Mountain" is not "a walk in Shenandoah National Park." The Instant Adventure article goes on to state that if your looking for a guide, we at SMG are your guys.

As for the climbing we did on Old Rag Saturday; with passing hail storms, standard Old Rag runouts, and loving on the slab nubbins, its always an adventure!

Back to Old Rag

3 - 21 - 08

First trip up the mountain for the season and what a day for it! Perfect temps and great granite views always leave you wanting more, just one reason we'll be climbing there tomorrow and many other days to come.

"Follow the dream...

... doesn't mean leave the love. Roam if you must, but come home when you've seen enough..."

Feb 29 - Mar 02

Guides and friends enjoying some east coast style thin ice before another meltdown.

"... with a smile and a hint of sarcasm he says, I beg your pardon but this is my secret garden. In the land of ice and snow." -Atmosphere

Fish Outa Water

2 - 26 - 08

The Big Fish himself running it to where the water ends and showing the High Angle Tech Rescue boys how to pull down. The conditions were ideal for a technical ice rescue with thin ice, wet rock and rain, who says training can't be fun?

Dreamsicles and Death Weather

I, Chad Heddleston am the guide who upkeeps this blog and I am currently on a two month road trip. The Big Fish was gracious enough to allow me the time during our slower winter months so I jumped at the chance. After six weeks on the road skiing and ice climbing I find myself in Utah's Zion National Park in search of ice. Why, one might ask did I choose one of America's hottest, driest climates to chase ice? "Because" in the words of George Leigh Mallory, "it's there."

Yesterday I tried to skin (backcountry ski) to the ice flow I came here to investigate but turned around early. The day was spectacular and even at 8,000 ft the temperature rose to just above freezing. With a very long approach and some concern of avalanche I bailed in favor of a safe run down on the skis. I am by myself this leg of the trip and choose to take no chances, but climbers are determined and I couldn't give up that easy.

Half the thrill of the kill is the chase and I am always on it. I crave fresh ice, whether it be some thing no one has climbed or just a line I personally have yet to experience. I know of what might be a possible flow on the West Rim Trail and set out early. The thermometer reads 22 degrees F and I hope that although I know it will reach well above freezing on the 4,000 ft canyon floor I hope it will be below the freeze point several thousand feet above.

A well packed snow trail leads to Scout Lookout and starts toward Angel's Landing. I continue on the packed trail, breaking for a time from the goal of the day. The tracks I'm following become fewer and fewer on the steep, narrow, snow covered trail as the many hikers before me found their respective limits and made the smart decision to turn around. I too find my ropeless limit and return to where the West Rim splits from the Angel's Landing trail. Looking up, the trail is unbroken and I set out as the snow begins to get heavy and the temperature creeps up.

Small snow slides begin high on a cliff somewhere and cascade down becoming air born then misting into nothing as they are engulfed in the vastness of air and glistening sunshine. Days like this I am so thankful; thankful to be here, thankful for the deer whose hoof prints brake trail on and off for more than a mile, thankful to the creator that such a wildly imaginative place even exists. Then I see it, my dreamsicle, it's easily 400ft and looks within my ability level. I break through the snow up to my knee most steps but am moving pretty fast. I'm thinking about how I'll ask my brother to jump a plane so we can climb it this weekend. "How fast can you get to Vegas?" "I can pick you up in three hours." Or maybe "you know the guidebook shows no established routes in southern Utah, want to establish one?" I start to break through to my thigh more often and realize that there is definitely a persistent weak layer where the snow must have thawed and refrozen for a while before Sunday's storm dropped the top 16 inches or so. It's something to look out for but I'm not in any avalanche danger. There is a little slope up there I'll be cautious with but it really looks very safe.

I head off the trail below the small slope to stay in the safest flatest zone. I do have a bad feeling and if you've been in the mountains you know you DO NOT ignore that feeling. Thhwwoouuummp, geerrraacaackk!!! I feel the entire area in a fifty foot radius of me drop as air rushes out from underneath and the cracks spread every which way in the ice underneath me. My heart races and I instinctively look up. I'm safe, in a flat zone and there's nothing coming from above, just settling below. A deep breath and I'm off, back down the mountain. I've seen enough and although I would like to get a closer view of the ice, next time I'm here I'll be with partners and beacons. I race back in my tracks and it's twenty minutes before I look back at the dreamsicle. What? A gigantic chunk is now gone from the base of the climb! I didn't even hear it come off. I am again thankful, this time it's that I was not climbing today!

Headed down the mountain I'm thinking about going south. Rock climbing's good down south this time of year! The trail becomes packed again and I relax as a large snowball slips silently from the cliffs high above. Phhhafwwappp, it narrowly misses my head and explodes on my pack sending cold snow to my neck and back.

Snowmelt waterfalls sparkle in the air, dampening rocks which rarely ever receive moisture. The world's largest sandcastles are being made too brittle to climb today and besides, I'm headed off the mountain.

Onward and Upward

Looking onward at the McCall, Idaho ice festival.

Feb 4th sunlight in Utah's Wasatch after the biggest snowfall Jan on record and a 24 inch in
24 hours storm.


Mountain goats overlooking Salt Lake City as seen from the top of the classic Little Cottonwood Canyon ice climb Scruffy.

Testing out the Avalung before a deep morning backcountry run in Utah's Wasatch mountains.

A morning ski sees morning light on the Wildcat Canyon trailhead in Zion National Park Feb 7th.

Cold Weather Living

Learning a thing or two about the cold in Co, Ut, Wy, Id, Mt, and Wa.

Fish and Swollen Knees

12 - 26 - 2007

SMG's founding guide is known as the Big Fish, and he has swollen knees. Years of abuse have seen the Big Fish nearly have an obliterated elbow amputated. The wrist and hands of the Fish have repeatedly known the loss of feeling and function. First long days are spent on the ice or more likely in the skis, then countless nights are spent with an ice pack elevated on a very swollen knee. On the Big Fish list of injuries blisters and sunburns need not apply. Right now his knees are swollen for the same reason they are always swollen, he has overstressed them, especially the one he just had surgery on.


You see the Big Fish has a problem we call dedication, and when something he's dedicated to requires standing, you'll see him stand, no matter how swollen the knee. The Big Fish shows dedication to SMG by hard work, and by leadership through example.


At SMG we are all dedicated to adventure and adventure sport education. Our dedication shows as our lives become filled with one adventure following another and we in turn pass those adventure enabling techniques to those around us. With the slow winter work schedule we guides now pursue our own adventures. The Big Fish rehabilitates his knees in anticipation of adventures in the ice and snow of the winters coldest months. The remaining guides seek our own sore knees. We hope to bring home some pictures, and some fish stories, to inspire you, as we have been inspired!

Fall Glory

These Wild Grapes were found Nov 6 not too far from Skyland lodge. These and a lot more like them are ripe for a trailside snack, provided the bears haven't found them.

Noticed this Red-backed salamander crossing a Tulip Poplar leaf near Rocky Branch trail.

A lightning strike this spring connected with this Oak just off the Skyline drive near mile 40. The splits' jagged path can be followed all the way up the tree. Check it out, it's cool.

Topping out a first ascent of the boulder problem now known as Haggis. It ascends the arete on a chunck of great Old Rag granite in SNP. Some serious fall color in the background. Nice problem Jonathan!

Not all the fall color is in the leaves, this rocks' bright patterns can be seen year round on the passamaquoddy trail.

Rocks and Walks

Oct 16 07
Rocking and walking through the fall in SNP. The incredible temperatures are trying to make up for a lack of color, and doing a pretty good job! Looks we'll wait a bit longer for the leaves to peak this year but, "the times they are a changing."

A Balanced Trip

9-18-07

A balanced trip takes the right distance, the right amount of time, the right trail, and does not walk under this tree at the wrong time!

Hanging Out

Noticed this flowering jewelweed plant hanging out next to some nettles, roots, moss and a small falls on 8-28-07. As for the SMG crew, in the last several weeks we might have been found hanging out at any of the following places:

in a rain storm with GWU students

guiding climbers in the GW National forest

guiding climbers in SNP

guiding climbers at the Frederick Co., VA Sheriff's Camp

guiding hiking on various trails in SNP

climbing personally at Franklin, WV, the Red, the New, and the most dirty, loose cliffs in WV

swimming in a multitude of swimming holes.

Living the good life!



Banded Tussock Moth caterpillar hanging out near the trail on a guided hike.

Before and After

8 - 10 - 2007

If a picture's worth a thousand words then zoom in on these faces. Sometimes it feels like we have to drag ourselves kicking and screaming to make that hike, rappel off that edge, or slide that slide, but in the end the face says it all. It's totally worth it!

Boys in the Wood

Aug 4 - Aug 10, 2007
When we leave our comfort zone we stand to learn a lot about life. For seven days the ten of us learned through paddling, climbing and living out of a pack. Although everyone under 25 started the week having never spent a night in the woods, much is learned through thunderstorms, struggles, and six summer nights.

Hot and Cool

8 - 6 - 07
A hot and fast hike up the mountain was followed by a very cool day of climbing. After a few great climbs at the Skyline wall it was the beauty of the evening light, victory, and a cool breeze for chilling on the Old Rag summit. We made it back late, tired, and smiling.

8 - 3 - 07

Slippery Sods

Hanging from a slippery sloper in Dolly Sods, WV and doing a little water bouldering. I guess that's what you do when you've had enough river tromping, water sliding, rock jumping, and you're still looking for some more high adventure.

Ponderables

With the Nature Conservancy
7 - 25 - 07

When the goal is to discuss nature's conservation, how long is it appropriate just to enjoy nature? When will wolves again run free and American Chestnuts stand tall in Shenandoah National Park? If Adirondack National Park creates an invaluable source of fresh water for New York City, how do we show the world that parks are financially viable and fiscally responsible? If many species we see are invasive, The dominant tree (chestnut) and predators are gone, then what has been conserved? How can we think bigger and help more?

Zeb walks on water

July 16 - 20, 2007

The high adventure "Zeb" program spent much of their packed week in the water. From Shenandoah, VA to Dolly Sods, WV, canyons were descended. Caves and cliffs were also descended. A great week!

High Adventure

July 8 - 13, 2007

Camp Rock Enon's Zeb, high adventure program led by us (SMG) is just that. Whether climbing or rappelling a large cliff in VA or WV, swimming a hundred yards through frigid cave water, canyoneering, mountain biking, or just team building the adventures won't be forgotten.

Summer Vacation

June 28 - July 01, 2007

My Summer Vacation in Shenandoah was amazing! I saw many great views from the Skyline Drive. But the views were so much bigger from the Appalachian Trail, or from the top of the rocks I climbed. I saw lots of waterfalls. I jumped off rocks into crystal clear water. I slid a natural water slide. I liked the locals too; the Rattlesnake I stepped over was nice and didn't even rattle. I accidentally interrupted a Black Bear while he was eating a dinner of ants but he just turned and walked away. I hope he finished his meal after we passed though. I had fun and learned a lot, but the best part was hanging out with Dad.

Normal Rockwell

July, 1 - July, 6 2007

No it's not a Norman Rockwell painting you see above, just a normal view into Camp Rock Enon's Mountaineering Week. There were many Rockwell like scenes from the week. Those scenes include a group of boys enjoying hot drinks during a cool evening's sunset from one of four high cliffs where we sat in Shenandoah. Another scene is that of the same group trying to look 360 degrees at once so we wouldn't miss any fireworks exploding in the valleys all around. Perfect weather, a great week on the trail.

Enjoying the Va,IEWS

Enjoying Shenandoah Va views with us this week were folks from VA, MD, NC, NH, CO, S. Africa, Southern Living mag and probably a few more. Good times had by all.

What's better?

If anyone knows a better way to bring in the summer than going out with good folks and canyoneering, please let us know, we want to lead those trips, too.

Skunk in the Meadow with you

6-20-07
After Search and Rescue training a relaxed walk in the Meadow is sweet. Watch out for this family of five skunks, they might be cute but momma can spray you from 10 feet.

6 - 17 - 07

Spent some time looking at the wildflowers in the morning, saw this guy in the afternoon. It's amazing what you find when you're looking.

Fresh Air

A lot like this bear, we spent the day enjoying the fresh mountain air. We spent some quality time hanging out above a lot of that fresh air on the side of a hundred foot rock. Once finished climbing and rappelling with the group I decided to go bouldering alone. While I climbed, a bear lingered nearby. I'm not sure which one of us was more interested in the other, with me climbing rocks and the bear searching for grubs. But as with the earlier part of the day, I think everyone enjoyed the company.

Blue Ridge Bounty

June 7-9 07

Our second day hiking revealed Shenandoah’s diverse wildlife. First we watched Peregrine Falcons in flight then we headed to the water. In a pool near the first waterslide we watched this common water snake eat tadpoles as a frog enjoyed a dip. More waterslides, good company and rock climbing were also enjoyed.

Guides go Big

Before the summer rush a couple guides managed to slip out for vacation. It started with some deep water soloing in West Va. before hopping a plane for the Zion canyon lands in Utah and some rock climbing at Red Rocks Nevada.



The rock in Zion is incredible! The sheer walls of Zion form immense mountains of Navajo sandstone. Here are some pictures of the stone on a small scale.



The canyons we chose to descend were mostly technical and included rappelling, wet or dry suits and some canyoneering specific techniques. We descended Keyhole, Das Boot, The Subway, Kolob, part of the Narrows and Imlay.



Even in the above 90 degree temps it can be very cold while descending the beautiful but dark canyons. In the picture above Brian shivers in his dry suit while Jeremy starts a long chained rappel. The picture below shows one of us doing push-ups to warm up after a swim.



We rounded out the trip with some bouldering and some hot climbing in Red Rocks, the home of the Horned Lizard pictured below. It was an unforgettable trip.

Hanging in Shenandoah

A great couple of days with Cisco, Southern Living, and this guy, a Red Spotted Newt in the Eft Stage. Hanging next to waterfalls, on the porch of the lodge, in a forest covered with flowers, and off the side of Old Rag with new friends. This is the life.

Living Large

5-05-07

Cruising down the river or watching Eagles cruise overhead, you can't help but have a good time.

High Angle Rescue

The staff at Shenandoah Mountain Guides is delighted to announce our successful completion of the Eastern High Angle Rescue Course! The course was held April 23-27 at Shenandoah National Park.
A fully loaded week of the many skills learned and practiced included all the elements of several types of technical high angle rescue. From litter tending on wet vertical rock, to rigging hull systems, to ascending on the jungle penetrator into the park police's Eagle One helicopter the course was extremely educational. The fun wasn't limited to learning new search and rescue skills. We took joy in showing off our home park, night climbing with students and instructors on Old Rag and Stony Man mountains and teaching anchor systems.
New friends, a wealth of new knowledge and ultimately the preparedness to keep endangered lives alive. What an awesome week! Thanks to all our extremely competent instructors and to Shenandoah National Park for this opportunity.

Virginia's Waterfalls Weep

Life goes on in the Blue Ridge.
We start atop a mountain on what poses as a winter morning. The fog and cold accentuate a feeling left from Monday's tragedy. It unfolded not so many miles south of where we stand. Soon we are aware of the earliest signs of spring. The yellow buds of Spicebush with their lemon scent, and Redbud, which adorns the woods with Tech burgundy. We reach water and begin to follow it down. The stream weeps over smooth stone slabs, falls, narrow chutes, and flowers beginning to bloom. Trilliums, Chickweed, Spring-beauties, Buttercups, Bloodroot, Cutleaf Toothwart, Wild Geraniums, varied Violets, Bluets and many others are proof of renewed life. The blooms show us frailty, beauty, and change. All this alongside the power of the water and the permanence of rock. We are in awe of these creations. Like budding trees on a beautiful spring day we begin to heal. Our thoughts and prayers go out to all affected.

Warmth

Bloodroot springs, from cold

Ice falls and crack climbs invite



New season, new joys

Winter Wonders

Along the AT

Nov 6 2006

A milkweed seed opens its chute and prepares to soar over the Shenandoah Valley.

A great hike on a beautiful day! Complete with views of ice in the shadows, fifty degree sunshine and hot chocolate on the roof of Shenandoah. Throw in some good company and a pinch of wildlife watching and you’ve got the recipe for a memorable day!

After a short break hikers prepare to move out.

A ROMP on Old Rag

A ROMP on Old Rag
Nov 4 2006


The group listens as park botanists speak.


Around 40 participants gathered amid the falling leaves for the park service led Rock Outcrop Management Project field trip. The very first arrivals were greeted with warm doughnuts and muffins from the Apple Hill Bakery. In the morning's freezing temps, the doughnuts cooled quickly but the donated coffee from Central Coffee Roasters stayed hot and everyone had their fill.

The morning treats brought by SMG were later used to coerce participants into carrying around trash bags all day. Maybe it was the coffee or maybe it was the cold but it was a quick trip up the mountain despite making new friends and chatting with old. Stops were made at various points of interest near the top of the mountain. The group discussed problems, solutions, and alternative solutions. The day got nicer, the ideas got brighter, the trash bags got filled. Some stayed around to climb the classic cracks. Some centered their attention on the trash-cluttered cracks at the summit. Most just had to head home.

One guide spent too much time looking for antique litter and ended up hiking down alone with a ripped trash bag. As the hole in the bag expanded, the bag moved from one hand, to two, to a bear hug position where the ragged rip could be eyed so no litter could fall back out. What could get out was the smell of the not-so-old sardine can. But if taking a large bag of trash off the top of the mountain doesn’t make it seem worth it, a doughnut, a cup of coffee and a country road will.

Buried in the clean-up and hoping that the jacket is ripstop.

In Between the Inns

Oct 23-24 2006

Stunning views of fall and all its glory dominated our Inn-to-Inn hike. The cool air and clear views transported us to somewhere much farther than Virginia. On day one we enjoyed the birds-eye perspective of a ridge hike on the AT and on day two we dropped into the forest for a closer look. We opted for the falls of the Rose River loop and were not let down. Then again sunlight shining through warm fall colors on a crisp autumn day seldom disappoints.


(Neither of the large falls seen on the loop, just fall)

Holes to Heaven

Oct 19, 2006

Driving out of a sea of valley fog into the peak color of the mountaintops at sunrise was perfect preparation for the day.
With the valley washed in white only the vibrant foliage at around 3500' could be seen as we hiked down to Lewis Falls (the third largest in the park). A picture is worth a thousand words.

Open Invitation

Open Invitation

(Old Rag summit area)

Hello friends,

As you all know, fall is here. The color is in at higher elevation, days are getting shorter, ice is forming not to far north, and the ROMP (Rock Outcrop Management Project) Old Rag field trip on Nov 4 is rapidly approaching. At Shenandoah Mountain Guides we are excited about this opportunity to work with other climbers and the park in developing a sustainable outcrop management plan for our best local climbing area.

Having spent countless trips climbing and hiking on the mountain we have, as you have, noticed many changes. One unfortunate detriment to the mountain is the large amount of trash piled up in the many cracks and fissures surrounding the summit area. We truly believe that most of this is not left due to heedless hikers, but rather, that the challenge and danger of removing carelessly lost items overcomes wilderness ethic. Enter climbers. We not only thrive on challenge and danger, but we love nothing better than squirming our bodies into and out of course granite cracks!

We are proposing a post ROMP field trip, summit area cleanup. We will bring hefty trash bags, gear, ropes and maybe a snack but we could use some more manpower. We will be spending a couple beautiful fall hours removing human impact from an area which has greatly impacted our lives.

Steve Bair, the Backcountry, Wilderness and Trails Manager for the park has given the cleanup the go ahead and would like to sign up the clean-up participants on-site as Park volunteers so volunteer hours and contributing personnel can be credited.

We look forward to the field trip, as well as the clean up and hope to see you all there!

(Come on out!)

Fall & Falls

Fall & Falls

with Evergreen Enterprises

Oct 14, 2006

Hikers enjoyed a stunning fall day on the Jones Run loop, watching the leaves and water fall over four cascades. Days like these leave one wanting to linger longer next to a falls, but as the leaves twirl down it seems the temperature follows and you realize the summer is gone.

A late bloomer enjoys the view.

Jones fall color

Who Better Than Americorp?

Who Better than Americorp?

Sept 17 – 19 2006

After a year of service, a fire fighting a team of 11 Americorp volunteers from Delaware deserved a relaxing retreat in beautiful Shenandoah National Park. We sent them backwards off a hundred foot cliff, they loved it! Their evening rappel was followed by a day in Whiteoak Canyon. Activities included hiking, swimming and an impromptu service project that removed a large tree from the middle of a natural waterslide. The final morning was spent on top of Hawksbill watching the sunrise over Old Rag. Congrats Grads!

More than a view

More than a view

Aug 16, 2006

Hikers started with a trek to the top of Shenandoah, at 4049 ft they topped out Hawksbill aiming to finish at Skyland. The scheduled day-hike turned out to be so much more when participants spotted two bear and numerous turkeys. Trekkers decided not to stop a good thing and hiked right on past the stopping point to the second highest point in SNP, Stony Man Mountain (4011ft). Everyone went to bed tired like they wanted to.

Stick Em Up!

Stick Em Up!

And grab that rock.
Aug 14 – 16, 2006

Over 100 youths from Frederick Co, Va participated in the Frederick County Sheriffs camp held at Camp Rock Enon, Va. For three days SMG staff led rock climbing and rappelling on the 70 foot cliffs. A good time was had by all.

"Hey, Hey, Johnny boy, the battle call..."

"Hey, Hey, Johnny boy, the battle call,

united we stand, divided we fall!" -Dropkick Murphys

Aug 5 - 11, 2006

A group of boys from Frederick, Md got together for a week of adventure with SMG staff. From climbing and rappelling, to mountain tops and mountain waterslides, it was a week of incredible ups and downs. The week culminated as the group sat alone on top of Old Rag Mountain in a dense fog. All of the sudden the clouds rolled over the summit to reveal an infinity of valley with more waves of fog on the way! The group sat in awe as clouds rushed past and an acrobatic raven displayed his tricks.

Voith Family Hike

Voith Family Hike

August 8, 2006

Guides enjoyed a fantastic dinner in Shenandoah thanks to the Voith's before arising early for a hike in Whiteoak Canyon. The trip left before sunrise at 5:15 am from Skyland lodge and returned early. The very fit family packed a lot into a day and we were happy to help.

Surviving the Heat

Surviving the Heat

July 31 - Aug 2, 2006

Kayaks await while a water fight challenge engulfs campers.

Frederick area youth spent three days in team competition and beating the heat 1,500 feet high on Maryland’s Catoctin Mountains. They stayed cool in the mountain streams, ponds, kayaking Cunningham Lake, and camping at an environmental education center. Competitions were modeled after TV's Survivor and enjoyed by all. The food was good, the friendships great, and the competition fierce.

Moving Mountains

Moving Mountains

July 22 - 28, 2006

Nine girls from Frederick, county schools (Md) met each other for a week of extraordinary firsts! The trip started with an introduction to rock-climbing, rappelling, and swimming in the mountain stream. The first campfire and night out were followed by a day of canoeing, swimming and watching Great Blue Herons and Eagles! The next five days were spent bonding in and with the wilderness, learning backcountry ethics, and front country life lessons. The group refreshed themselves in Shenandoah National Park's brook waterslides and holes as they backpacked up three of its highest peaks! Many animals crossed paths with the girls including, a beautiful two-tone rattlesnake, deer, squirrels, chipmunks, turkey, and four black bear! A once in a lifetime view occurred on the summit of Old Rag mountain as the girls watched a yearling bear walk down and across a very exposed section of rock before climbing over a boulder and disappearing in the brush. Amazing!