High Angle Rescue

April 21 - 26, 2008

"Because gravity,

even more than the sea,

does not forgive."

This years NPS Eastern High Angle Rescue course was held at Buffalo National River, Arkansas. The Buffalo is a long drive from Shenandoah but three SMG staff were able and excited to make the trip. On the trip down, after driving all night, we were thrust into an appropriate rescue course warm up when flagged to the side of the road by a panicked woman next to a minivan. The 37 year old male in the back of the fully loaded van was having a medical emergence, trouble breathing and vomiting. Working through a language barrier Jeremy reported to EMS our exact location while Matt and I evaluated the patient. In ten minutes we turned over our SOAP notes to the local EMS and continued on through the cold Tennessee daybreak.

Once at the Buffalo it was five very full days of rescue training learning everything one needs to know in order to perform a rescue of someone stuck or broken on a cliff. Here's a couple pics from the week.

Jack, ascending a large overhang.


Mike performs a pick off in the Buffalo indoor facility.


Jo Practices ascending during a great day on the cliff.


A little sunset bouldering before the course began.

Tracy, a Buffalo River Rescuer on rappel.

High Angle Technical Rescue

Venture Climbing

4 - 12 - 08

Great weather and Camp Rock Enon rocks make for an unforgetable first climb for many venture crew members.

3 - 27 - 08

Enjoying a great spring break view of Lewis falls!

Adventure on Old Rag

March 22 08

The April 08 edition of National Geographic Adventure magazine states that "Old Rag Mountain" is not "a walk in Shenandoah National Park." The Instant Adventure article goes on to state that if your looking for a guide, we at SMG are your guys.

As for the climbing we did on Old Rag Saturday; with passing hail storms, standard Old Rag runouts, and loving on the slab nubbins, its always an adventure!

Back to Old Rag

3 - 21 - 08

First trip up the mountain for the season and what a day for it! Perfect temps and great granite views always leave you wanting more, just one reason we'll be climbing there tomorrow and many other days to come.

"Follow the dream...

... doesn't mean leave the love. Roam if you must, but come home when you've seen enough..."

Feb 29 - Mar 02

Guides and friends enjoying some east coast style thin ice before another meltdown.

"... with a smile and a hint of sarcasm he says, I beg your pardon but this is my secret garden. In the land of ice and snow." -Atmosphere

Fish Outa Water

2 - 26 - 08

The Big Fish himself running it to where the water ends and showing the High Angle Tech Rescue boys how to pull down. The conditions were ideal for a technical ice rescue with thin ice, wet rock and rain, who says training can't be fun?

Dreamsicles and Death Weather

I, Chad Heddleston am the guide who upkeeps this blog and I am currently on a two month road trip. The Big Fish was gracious enough to allow me the time during our slower winter months so I jumped at the chance. After six weeks on the road skiing and ice climbing I find myself in Utah's Zion National Park in search of ice. Why, one might ask did I choose one of America's hottest, driest climates to chase ice? "Because" in the words of George Leigh Mallory, "it's there."

Yesterday I tried to skin (backcountry ski) to the ice flow I came here to investigate but turned around early. The day was spectacular and even at 8,000 ft the temperature rose to just above freezing. With a very long approach and some concern of avalanche I bailed in favor of a safe run down on the skis. I am by myself this leg of the trip and choose to take no chances, but climbers are determined and I couldn't give up that easy.

Half the thrill of the kill is the chase and I am always on it. I crave fresh ice, whether it be some thing no one has climbed or just a line I personally have yet to experience. I know of what might be a possible flow on the West Rim Trail and set out early. The thermometer reads 22 degrees F and I hope that although I know it will reach well above freezing on the 4,000 ft canyon floor I hope it will be below the freeze point several thousand feet above.

A well packed snow trail leads to Scout Lookout and starts toward Angel's Landing. I continue on the packed trail, breaking for a time from the goal of the day. The tracks I'm following become fewer and fewer on the steep, narrow, snow covered trail as the many hikers before me found their respective limits and made the smart decision to turn around. I too find my ropeless limit and return to where the West Rim splits from the Angel's Landing trail. Looking up, the trail is unbroken and I set out as the snow begins to get heavy and the temperature creeps up.

Small snow slides begin high on a cliff somewhere and cascade down becoming air born then misting into nothing as they are engulfed in the vastness of air and glistening sunshine. Days like this I am so thankful; thankful to be here, thankful for the deer whose hoof prints brake trail on and off for more than a mile, thankful to the creator that such a wildly imaginative place even exists. Then I see it, my dreamsicle, it's easily 400ft and looks within my ability level. I break through the snow up to my knee most steps but am moving pretty fast. I'm thinking about how I'll ask my brother to jump a plane so we can climb it this weekend. "How fast can you get to Vegas?" "I can pick you up in three hours." Or maybe "you know the guidebook shows no established routes in southern Utah, want to establish one?" I start to break through to my thigh more often and realize that there is definitely a persistent weak layer where the snow must have thawed and refrozen for a while before Sunday's storm dropped the top 16 inches or so. It's something to look out for but I'm not in any avalanche danger. There is a little slope up there I'll be cautious with but it really looks very safe.

I head off the trail below the small slope to stay in the safest flatest zone. I do have a bad feeling and if you've been in the mountains you know you DO NOT ignore that feeling. Thhwwoouuummp, geerrraacaackk!!! I feel the entire area in a fifty foot radius of me drop as air rushes out from underneath and the cracks spread every which way in the ice underneath me. My heart races and I instinctively look up. I'm safe, in a flat zone and there's nothing coming from above, just settling below. A deep breath and I'm off, back down the mountain. I've seen enough and although I would like to get a closer view of the ice, next time I'm here I'll be with partners and beacons. I race back in my tracks and it's twenty minutes before I look back at the dreamsicle. What? A gigantic chunk is now gone from the base of the climb! I didn't even hear it come off. I am again thankful, this time it's that I was not climbing today!

Headed down the mountain I'm thinking about going south. Rock climbing's good down south this time of year! The trail becomes packed again and I relax as a large snowball slips silently from the cliffs high above. Phhhafwwappp, it narrowly misses my head and explodes on my pack sending cold snow to my neck and back.

Snowmelt waterfalls sparkle in the air, dampening rocks which rarely ever receive moisture. The world's largest sandcastles are being made too brittle to climb today and besides, I'm headed off the mountain.

Onward and Upward

Looking onward at the McCall, Idaho ice festival.

Feb 4th sunlight in Utah's Wasatch after the biggest snowfall Jan on record and a 24 inch in
24 hours storm.


Mountain goats overlooking Salt Lake City as seen from the top of the classic Little Cottonwood Canyon ice climb Scruffy.

Testing out the Avalung before a deep morning backcountry run in Utah's Wasatch mountains.

A morning ski sees morning light on the Wildcat Canyon trailhead in Zion National Park Feb 7th.

Cold Weather Living

Learning a thing or two about the cold in Co, Ut, Wy, Id, Mt, and Wa.

Fish and Swollen Knees

12 - 26 - 2007

SMG's founding guide is known as the Big Fish, and he has swollen knees. Years of abuse have seen the Big Fish nearly have an obliterated elbow amputated. The wrist and hands of the Fish have repeatedly known the loss of feeling and function. First long days are spent on the ice or more likely in the skis, then countless nights are spent with an ice pack elevated on a very swollen knee. On the Big Fish list of injuries blisters and sunburns need not apply. Right now his knees are swollen for the same reason they are always swollen, he has overstressed them, especially the one he just had surgery on.


You see the Big Fish has a problem we call dedication, and when something he's dedicated to requires standing, you'll see him stand, no matter how swollen the knee. The Big Fish shows dedication to SMG by hard work, and by leadership through example.


At SMG we are all dedicated to adventure and adventure sport education. Our dedication shows as our lives become filled with one adventure following another and we in turn pass those adventure enabling techniques to those around us. With the slow winter work schedule we guides now pursue our own adventures. The Big Fish rehabilitates his knees in anticipation of adventures in the ice and snow of the winters coldest months. The remaining guides seek our own sore knees. We hope to bring home some pictures, and some fish stories, to inspire you, as we have been inspired!

Fall Glory

These Wild Grapes were found Nov 6 not too far from Skyland lodge. These and a lot more like them are ripe for a trailside snack, provided the bears haven't found them.

Noticed this Red-backed salamander crossing a Tulip Poplar leaf near Rocky Branch trail.

A lightning strike this spring connected with this Oak just off the Skyline drive near mile 40. The splits' jagged path can be followed all the way up the tree. Check it out, it's cool.

Topping out a first ascent of the boulder problem now known as Haggis. It ascends the arete on a chunck of great Old Rag granite in SNP. Some serious fall color in the background. Nice problem Jonathan!

Not all the fall color is in the leaves, this rocks' bright patterns can be seen year round on the passamaquoddy trail.

Rocks and Walks

Oct 16 07
Rocking and walking through the fall in SNP. The incredible temperatures are trying to make up for a lack of color, and doing a pretty good job! Looks we'll wait a bit longer for the leaves to peak this year but, "the times they are a changing."

A Balanced Trip

9-18-07

A balanced trip takes the right distance, the right amount of time, the right trail, and does not walk under this tree at the wrong time!

Hanging Out

Noticed this flowering jewelweed plant hanging out next to some nettles, roots, moss and a small falls on 8-28-07. As for the SMG crew, in the last several weeks we might have been found hanging out at any of the following places:

in a rain storm with GWU students

guiding climbers in the GW National forest

guiding climbers in SNP

guiding climbers at the Frederick Co., VA Sheriff's Camp

guiding hiking on various trails in SNP

climbing personally at Franklin, WV, the Red, the New, and the most dirty, loose cliffs in WV

swimming in a multitude of swimming holes.

Living the good life!



Banded Tussock Moth caterpillar hanging out near the trail on a guided hike.

Before and After

8 - 10 - 2007

If a picture's worth a thousand words then zoom in on these faces. Sometimes it feels like we have to drag ourselves kicking and screaming to make that hike, rappel off that edge, or slide that slide, but in the end the face says it all. It's totally worth it!

Boys in the Wood

Aug 4 - Aug 10, 2007
When we leave our comfort zone we stand to learn a lot about life. For seven days the ten of us learned through paddling, climbing and living out of a pack. Although everyone under 25 started the week having never spent a night in the woods, much is learned through thunderstorms, struggles, and six summer nights.

Hot and Cool

8 - 6 - 07
A hot and fast hike up the mountain was followed by a very cool day of climbing. After a few great climbs at the Skyline wall it was the beauty of the evening light, victory, and a cool breeze for chilling on the Old Rag summit. We made it back late, tired, and smiling.

8 - 3 - 07

Slippery Sods

Hanging from a slippery sloper in Dolly Sods, WV and doing a little water bouldering. I guess that's what you do when you've had enough river tromping, water sliding, rock jumping, and you're still looking for some more high adventure.

Ponderables

With the Nature Conservancy
7 - 25 - 07

When the goal is to discuss nature's conservation, how long is it appropriate just to enjoy nature? When will wolves again run free and American Chestnuts stand tall in Shenandoah National Park? If Adirondack National Park creates an invaluable source of fresh water for New York City, how do we show the world that parks are financially viable and fiscally responsible? If many species we see are invasive, The dominant tree (chestnut) and predators are gone, then what has been conserved? How can we think bigger and help more?

Zeb walks on water

July 16 - 20, 2007

The high adventure "Zeb" program spent much of their packed week in the water. From Shenandoah, VA to Dolly Sods, WV, canyons were descended. Caves and cliffs were also descended. A great week!

High Adventure

July 8 - 13, 2007

Camp Rock Enon's Zeb, high adventure program led by us (SMG) is just that. Whether climbing or rappelling a large cliff in VA or WV, swimming a hundred yards through frigid cave water, canyoneering, mountain biking, or just team building the adventures won't be forgotten.

Summer Vacation

June 28 - July 01, 2007

My Summer Vacation in Shenandoah was amazing! I saw many great views from the Skyline Drive. But the views were so much bigger from the Appalachian Trail, or from the top of the rocks I climbed. I saw lots of waterfalls. I jumped off rocks into crystal clear water. I slid a natural water slide. I liked the locals too; the Rattlesnake I stepped over was nice and didn't even rattle. I accidentally interrupted a Black Bear while he was eating a dinner of ants but he just turned and walked away. I hope he finished his meal after we passed though. I had fun and learned a lot, but the best part was hanging out with Dad.

Normal Rockwell

July, 1 - July, 6 2007

No it's not a Norman Rockwell painting you see above, just a normal view into Camp Rock Enon's Mountaineering Week. There were many Rockwell like scenes from the week. Those scenes include a group of boys enjoying hot drinks during a cool evening's sunset from one of four high cliffs where we sat in Shenandoah. Another scene is that of the same group trying to look 360 degrees at once so we wouldn't miss any fireworks exploding in the valleys all around. Perfect weather, a great week on the trail.

Enjoying the Va,IEWS

Enjoying Shenandoah Va views with us this week were folks from VA, MD, NC, NH, CO, S. Africa, Southern Living mag and probably a few more. Good times had by all.

What's better?

If anyone knows a better way to bring in the summer than going out with good folks and canyoneering, please let us know, we want to lead those trips, too.

Skunk in the Meadow with you

6-20-07
After Search and Rescue training a relaxed walk in the Meadow is sweet. Watch out for this family of five skunks, they might be cute but momma can spray you from 10 feet.